Thursday, December 9, 2010

...and on a personal note:


Writer’s block? Maybe. Life block? Maybe that, too. For whatever reason, finding the motivation to write and post here has been at an all-time low. Life feels like kind of a mess right now, and for someone who likes everything in order, I don’t like to see that in writing. It’s like an admission I’m not perfect.
Yes, I know, get over myself.
So, I could say something cliché like “life is at a crossroads right now” to explain my spinning head and not-unhappy-but-not-happy current state. However, that whole ‘crossroads’ analogy implies there are three distinct options from which to choose: left, straight, right.
(As an aside, whenever I hear that phrase, I picture one of those intersections in the middle of bumblefuck Western US, with four dirt roads meeting, no street signs, flat desert landscape, tumbleweeds, and the decision-maker is of course driving a pickup. I’d like to claim this visual as my own, but it was probably in a movie.)
Anyway, my crossroads right now seem more like blindly stepping into the darkness, not really knowing the direction, not knowing if the first step will be solid ground beneath me, wishing I could just jump over the first step and land somewhere down the path, happy and fulfilled and not wondering all the time.
I am trying to be better at being happy in the moment, instead of always trying to get to whatever’s next. Pretty much my whole life, I’ve had some idea of what the next step would be. The high school-college-grad school path is not particularly thought-provoking, and there was security in knowing there was a line between Point A and Point B, which would lead to Point C. I could assert my independence by extending that line to far-off places.
Even the initial move to Israel, despite the picture of romance and adventure, was really just an extension of the same line. Making the decision of course wasn’t done overnight, but once I did, things were pretty well mapped out. I found a postdoc, I had somewhere to live, I’d start learning the language, Ron and I would be together; while everything that comes with living in a new country was challenging at best, there was still an order and a line through it all.
So now what? I’m unhappy being a scientist. I want to write and/or edit, but there are no scientific journals in Israel. I have a student visa, so I’m not eligible to work here even if I did find a job. My Hebrew is improving but not to the point where I could work in the language. Ron and I are dealing with a changing relationship – the excitement of falling in love in NYC, the struggles of being apart, the bliss of finally being back together has now entered “boring everyday life” phase.
I could go on and on (and when I do, I usually end up in some state of anxiety/tears/depression/overwhelmed, so I won’t). The basic point is: there is no more line. You would think that this would make me feel completely free and liberated, to be able to do whatever I want, but it doesn’t. Instead, the best way for me to describe my current situation: stuck. As if every way I want to try to make the first step into the darkness is blocked. The problem is, I think, is that every step I’ve thought to take has not actually been so far from the line. Whatever I do next will be making up my own line. I need to now think completely outside the box, find creativity, and make up my next move.
So, what’s a girl to do? If I am blocked in my attempts to make big steps, I guess I try half steps? Big step: quitting my postdoc for a job based in Israel and hope they can sponsor a work visa. Half-step: starting the application procedure for a resident visa. So, that doesn’t get me un-stuck from my postdoc, but at least it will remove a block in my path. It would give me the option to start doing freelance work, anyway, if I decide to quit without having a physical job lined up.
Big step: trying to establish myself as a freelance science editor. Half-step: sending my CV to online editing firms, working with them for a bit until I move from my postdoc, figuring out what it entails, and then maybe doing it on my own here in Israel, if it’s something I still like doing. Again, not exactly a career-changer, but it gives me the chance to develop my skills and something to think about other than my postdoc.
Big step: incorporating my love for running, fitness, nutrition that has always been an important part of my life and a hobby into “what I do.” Half step: well, that’s a good question. I’ve started talking to people I know who are personal trainers, fitness buffs, etc. I could see myself doing one-on-one sessions with clients (not working for a gym), setting up a fitness blog based on science, all basically on the side (a “don’t give up your day job” sort of arrangement). We’ll see. I thought maybe also to try to start a women’s beginner running group – basically to advertise to some of the online forums in Jerusalem, meet once a week in the park without really much of a plan, just a comfortable group to run/walk with other women without any embarrassment about being newbies.
So is putting all this in writing admitting that I am lost and need help? Maybe. And I’m not good at that. But it’s the one big step I know I can take right now, and that feels good.

Saturday, September 18, 2010

Why running is like life. Or vice versa.


Ok, yes this is an old cliché and totally not original, but if these thoughts have been bouncing around in my head on runs, I must get them out! Call it an exercise in jazzing up a tired metaphor.
There are easy parts: where you’re coasting along and feeling great like you could go on forever. No effort required - your legs and lungs and heart are a well-oiled machine.
And then, bam: a stone trips you up. Your left foot trips you up. You didn’t even see it coming, but you’re down. Hopefully it’s minor, and after hopping on one foot and then the other to assess the damage, with some light self-swearing for being a clutz, you’re off again, with maybe a nice bloody elbow or bruised knee to prove your hardcore-ness.
Sometimes it’s serious, and you have to stop. But you haven’t really stopped, you’re just in healing-phase instead of running-phase, and it will still build you into a better runner, just less obviously-so. The hardest part is to be smart enough to know when to leave the healing phase and enter back into the running phase: not too soon but not too late.
Sometimes the obstacle is much greater than a rock or a rogue left foot. Sometimes something impassable is in front of you – a fallen tree, a wall, the edge of a cliff perhaps. You stop, wondering where to go, because you’ve come to far to turn around and go back. So you go around. Sometimes that means going seemingly sideways for miles, but it’s better than going backwards. Soon you’ll be able to cross to the other side and keep moving confidently forward.
A hill is not one of these obstacles, no matter how big and scary it seems at the bottom. In this case, no change of direction is needed. Just a deep breath, good form, small steps, and the humility to move at a slower pace than what you’re used to on flat ground. In really dire circumstances, throw the form part out of the window, and just put your head down and use brute force to get to the top.
Don’t anticipate the hills that may be in the future, they will only cause you to seize up and slow down in the present, before it’s time.
Sometimes you move through familiar territory, where you know every turn and every step. While you can make great pace here, it is easy to coast without assessing how you feel. On the other hand, sometimes you find yourself in strange neighborhoods, senses heightened but pace lowered. Even if you feel slightly lost, you usually can sense the general direction you want to be going. Maybe you won’t get there in the most efficient way, but just having your wits about you to know more or less where you are will get you there.
Sometimes it feels like everything is going wrong – there’s a storm, the wind is moving in circles and always in your face, your shoes keep coming untied, and you just feel like sitting to let it all pass over you. Running through the storm is a much more exhilarating way to get out of it than to sit and passively let it roll by.
It’s fun to get caught up in all the extra toys and gadgets and wicking materials and accessories and shoes guaranteed to make you fly and all of that. Just don’t forget that all you really need to run is simply your body.
In the middle of a tough part, it’s easy to look only a few feet in front of you, staring at the road hoping it will end soon. Look up – you could be missing an amazing view that puts everything into perspective.

Saturday, September 11, 2010

Being an ex-pat on 9/11

Being an American in a foreign country has given me the chance to see the USA from a different perspective and has actually taught me a lot about what it really means to be American. Being an American in Israel is especially enlightening, I think, because there are so many ways in which the two countries are similar, so many ways they are different, and so many ways each misunderstands the other.

I proudly voted for Obama right before I moved here - it was a time of great hope but also began what I see as a trend of division and ugliness. As soon as I moved, I found myself having to explain things I was not (and still am not) qualified to explain: the financial crisis, Obama's foreign policy and view of Israel, the opposition to the healthcare reform bill, the Tea Party, Sarah Palin. There are intricacies of the US political system that cannot be understood by a country of just under 8 million people with a Parliamentary system of government.

What I cannot explain is the recent trend of hate, ugliness and ignorance coming from the US. And I am no longer talking about what is going on in politics, although that is bad enough. It is horrifying to watch your fellow citizens display their ignorance about their President, about the political decisions they need to make when they go to vote, about what is science and what is religion, and about people different from them.

One of the great things about America is that we are allowed to express our opinions, protest, and be pissed off at our country. What scares me is the lack of factual information used to form these opinions. It seems that instead of wanting to hear both sides of the story in order to form an intelligent opinion, people just seek others who share their same views and sit around agreeing with each other and yelling at the other side in a big am-not-are-too playground battle. Most of the time, it seems these groups think the louder and more extreme they are, the more correct and righteous that makes them. And the one person who is holding his cool and trying to fix the mess he inherited is constantly under attack for not having solved these problems yesterday.

The news of the NYC mosque and the Quran-burning pastor has of course made it to this neck of the woods. I found myself at Shabbat dinner last night, surrounded by 60+-year-old native Israelis, almost in tears discussing these events. Imagine that, someone from the big Melting Pot trying to explain to people who have a daily threat from Arab Muslims how we can be so wrongly scared of Islam.


Again, I think it's amazing that America is a place where people can protest and express their opinions, no matter how controversial, uncomfortable, or extreme. What I think has really struck a nerve with me is not so much the actual act of burning the Quran, but on doing so on the memory of all those who perished on 9/11. Have we learned nothing in the past 9 years?! This is how people want to remember the dead? By letting ignorance and hatred penetrate our nation? What a departure from the sense of solidarity and patriotism that occurred in the aftermath of the attacks.

My hopes for America as we remember the horrific day 9 years ago and seek to honor those who died:

Hug your families and loved ones and be thankful each day that you have them.

Instead of shutting down and putting up a wall between you and someone with a different opinion, listen to them. Challenge yourself to understand their point of view because it will only make your opinion that much stronger.

Celebrate our differences. Learn from them. Be thankful you live in a country where these differences can even exist.


Continue to fight and be pissed off, but at least do so intelligently and effectively. Being ill-informed and loud doesn't make you right, just noisy.


Instead of burning the Quran, read it. Instead of shutting the doors of a mosque, enter one. Learn about the religion and realize the beauty that the great majority of followers see in it. At the same time, realize how it is extorted by extremists and the danger in equating the religion with terrorism. Islam =/= al Qaeda.

Friday, July 23, 2010

'Tis the season...

...for figs!



















One of my favorite things about Israel (of course it would be food-related) is the abundance of fresh produce here. There are only a handful of fruits and veggies that the States does better - apples and corn, to name two.

Our landlord has tons of fruit trees around the yard. Unfortunately, this year's weather prevented the berry and cherry trees from producing much of anything. My disappointment at not being able to pluck fresh cherries from the backyard was compounded by the fact that the same weather affected all the country's orchards, thus driving up fruit prices at the market. It's hard to spend 12 shekels/kilo on peaches when last year they were half that.

But the figs! The figs survived! The figs are coming! Ron collected all those you see in the photo (minus the half-dozen we promptly devoured for breakfast). And they are so. Good. And I think this would explain the appearance of two fruit bats to our yard last night - last year we would sit outside after the sun went down and watch them fly around the yard, confused by Ron's squeaking bat-calls. Last night was the first night we saw any! All because of the figs!

Friday, July 16, 2010

Driving with the Devil (all 8 million of them)

On the day I turned 16, my mom (bless her heart) and I went to the DMV in Apple Valley, MN without an appointment, stood in line and hung out on the lawn of the testing center watching the hired pedestrians pacing around the side of the road. The days before I had diligently practiced parallel parking (I knew my weakness!) our old Chrysler minivan in our driveway, and then suffered a minor freakout when, for some reason that evades me now, there was a last-minute substitution for my dad's Toyota Celica. You'd think I would be thrilled, because Celica > Caravan any day, but I hadn't practiced! I didn't know where the hazard light button was!

So, it was with pounding heart I sat in the driver's seat, looking frantically for that little red triangle without being obvious as one of the largest men I have ever seen tried to squeeze himself into the bucket seat of the Celica. I bet he was wishing for the Caravan. He managed to get his bulk, plus his clipboard, safely buckled in, and we were off! At a screaming 20 mph! I even managed to parallel park, even though I was a bit far away from the curb. That, and "not inspecting the intersection before I entered on a green light" were my only infractions, so I had passed! Happy birthday to me!

Fast-forward 13 years later, and once again I found myself needing to pass a driving test. I had started the bureaucratic process of converting my US license to an Israeli one 6 months ago: getting an eye exam, detouring to renew my visa, getting permission from the Misrad haRishui (the Israeli DMV) to schedule a lesson and exam, scheduling said lesson and exam, going to the post office to pay fees. I had a contact of a driving instructor from fellow Ulpan students who had successfully changed their license. At 7:30 one Sunday morning, he met me outside of the University for my 20 minute behind-the-wheel lesson. I have been driving in Israel on my US license for over a year. There's nothing like learning by immersion, so this lesson was more a formality - "so you can't say you've never heard this before." I was shocked to hear him tell me to "stay on the right" and to "not enter the intersection on yellow" and to "give right-of-way to pedestrians" and to "always signal when turning" because I was certain these rules had disappeared from Israeli memory. "You're technically not supposed to use your horn except in case of emergency but no one enforces THAT rule." Ah, okay, that's better.

It took a month before I was scheduled for an exam. I was given an appointment at 8:20 am, which meant full-on Jerusalem rush-hour traffic. Joy. As I dropped Ron off at work, his one piece of advice? "Don't drive like an Israeli. You drive well, but don't drive like you normally do." Um, okay, thanks?! When I arrived to the testing center, I chatted with the other couple who shared my appointment. They were a nice young religious couple from the States, who were on their second try. They had horror stories about the woman who tested them the first time: she grabbed the steering wheel, she used her brakes, she screamed. Her goal in life, it seemed, was to fail drivers. This was far removed from most of the stories I had heard, where the instructor just wants to make sure you've driven before and have control of the vehicle.

Finally, our instructor arrived, and true to the apparent trend I have, he was thankful the instructor's car was a practical sedan and not a Celica. I sat in the backseat as the couple took their turns: 10 minutes or so of aimless driving around the Talpiyot section of Jerusalem. This meant many cars, many round-abouts, many small streets. Both of them seemed to be driving scared, but they were fine. It also was apparent that the instructor was not out to trick anyone. His vocabulary consisted of "right... left... pull over... change drivers." Then it was my turn, and we basically just had to return to the testing center. I was on my best behavior: no horn-honking, no quick moves to pull into the round-abouts, no maneuvers to get around buses. And then it came: I was on a two-way street that had only enough room for one car at a time. Suddenly, out of nowhere, a Brinks van came barreling down the street with no signs of slowing down. I had to slam on the breaks and pull my nose over. And I could have SWORN the tester used his brake. That's it, I thought, it's over. I failed. He used his brake.

Now, due to some unpleasant incidents in the past, you don't find out on the spot whether or not you pass the test. Instead, I had all day to convince myself I had failed the test. And I did a fine job of it: I had drawn out scenario after scenario of being disgraced. A failure! She can't drive, even well enough by Israeli standards!

At 4:36 I took a deep breath and called my instructor to find out my results. "Hi Erin, how are you?" "Fine... I think. You tell me."

Dum-dah-dummmm.

"Oh, there is no problem. You passed."

I actually felt the weight being lifted from my shoulders. Whew! So, after another trip to the Misrad haRishui, I am the proud holder of an Israeli license. Not as proud as I thought I'd be, because I'm only here on a visa so I have only a flimsy piece of paper that has to be renewed every six months. No pretty plastic card with a bad picture for me. At least I don't have to take the test again!

Saturday, July 3, 2010

I almost died today. Or felt like it. In my head, parking a few km down the mountain to start my usual Saturday 20-24km run would mean my run would be flat.

The run was beautiful, looping around trails in the mountains outside Jerusalem, near Givat Yearim and Kesalon:










Problem was, it wasn't flat. Not even a little bit.








During all those yellow/orange/red sections - so, like, an hour+ - I was kicking myself for not making gazpacho yesterday. It would have tasted amazing post-run (although, let's face it, my running socks probably would have tasted amazing provided they were chilled first). I had stocked up on extra veggies at the market especially with this recipe in mind. I made it once before, and it's lovely. Granted, my recipe looks a bit different from the published recipe on Epicurious.com, in that I entirely ignore the quantities (do people really measure out vegetable amounts in recipes?!). Like most recipes, I tend to use them as guidelines, rather than hard-and-fast rules. I'm by no means a seasoned chef, but I know my way around the kitchen enough to feel confident tweaking recipes even if I've never followed them before - it's just a matter of knowing which things you can change or substitute (# of garlic cloves) and which things are best left alone (flour:sugar:egg ratios in baking). Of course, if a recipe involves yeast, the only thing I change is adding the instruction "hold your breath and pray."

Well, after a fantastic banana-pear-yogurt-milk-flax-peanut butter smoothie (thankfully I did not have to eat my socks), I set to work making the gazpacho I spent 7 brutal miles drooling over.

First things first:

Because cooking isn't cooking without a glass of wine.
Please note the still-wet bottles from my water belt. I have an amazing transition time in my running-drinking biathlon.


One of my favorite things about living in Israel is the plethora of amazing fresh produce. Cucumbers here have FLAVOR. Plus, you don't have to peel them, because their skins aren't made of wax. And, it's cheap - peppers right now are about 4 shekels/kilo, which works out to about $1/kilo, which works out to 45c/pound. So many conversions, so little time.


Ingredients all assembled, I set to chopping. And chopping. Like I said, I didn't measure anything, I just made sure I had room left in the bowl for the liquid ingredients and that all the colors were in a nice proportion. Final count: 2 peppers (one yellow, one orange), 3 tomatoes, 3 cucs, a handful of cilantro, 2 little red onions, one hot pepper, cumin, pepper, homemade chicken stock, the remainder of the bottle of white wine vinegar, a 3-second pour of olive oil, one liter tomato juice, juice from half a lemon. Plus, the mashed garlic-salt-egg concoction (with 3 cloves and sea salt) and breadcrumbs to thicken.

  Before:                                            
                      
After:


It's now merrily chilling, and unless we eat during the Germany-Argentina game, it will be dinner. Unless Ron gets to it first, I already had to keep his nose out of the bowl once!

Motivation

Well, obviously I haven't posted in a while. I think my "Israel is funny" angle just isn't motivating me enough to post regularly. I mean, if I'm supposed to be acclimating, I can't be fixated on the differences between here and the States, otherwise I won't be making a complete transition to my life here. So, I'm going to try a new angle - to just write about MY life here, simple as that. I hope to emphasize the "only in Israel" aspects of my experiences, but also use this blog as an outlet to vent, complain, brag, babble aimlessly, whatever. So, with that, I've got a post percolating in the ol' noggin that should make its way here in the next day or two :)

Wednesday, May 5, 2010

Another milestone passed:

I passed through airport security, the Delta ticket counter, the next round of airport security, and Duty Free - all in Hebrew :)

Sunday, April 25, 2010

Headlines to die for.

The driving habits of Israelis could fill up an entire blog by itself. I would have enough material for a daily blog if I just recounted the traffic-law violations I saw on a daily basis. Scratch that, forget traffic-law violations, just common-sense violations would suffice. Turn signals? Turning left from the left-hand turn lane and not three lanes over? Driving right, passing left? Driving at a constant speed without randomly throwing on the emergency brake and coming to a complete stop in the middle of the road? Forget it, such things do not exist here.

Apparently, the powers that be have apparently caught on to the erratic driving tendencies of Israeli drivers. Right now there is an advertising campaign urging people not to do anything but drive while they're behind the wheel. On the radio, you'll hear a "common" situation, and until a couple of weeks ago, this would be followed by the sound of a crash, followed by a very solemn voice urging the driver not to do such things. The worst one was a father calling home to say goodnight to his young daughter before she went to bed, only to have her hear an accident and cry futilely "Abba... Abba?!" into the phone. The crash sound has recently disappeared, probably because of the cringe-factor.

I'll admit, some of these situations aren't specific to Israel. Especially the whole texting/talking on the cell phone bit. And I'm sure elsewhere, people fiddle with their GPS systems, their kids' movies, the radio, turn around to calm a screaming child, look at a map, or read the newspaper.

Wait... rewind... what?!


Yes, one "common" situation here in Israel is for people to catch up on their daily news whilst driving. I have seen it, from bus drivers of PUBLIC buses (Egged, are you listening? I don't see "certain death or bodily harm" listed under that "services" menu). I mean, are red lights seriously that boring? This in a country where the news comes on every radio station every hour - and some every half-hour. NOTHING has happened that will change your life since you last hear the news. Shocking, I know, but it's true.

Now, we have to work on a campaign to explain the difference between the gas pedal and the brake pedal.

Thursday, March 25, 2010

If it's not water, it's not worth saving.

Daylight saving whaaaa?

In the States, for about three weeks before the clocks get sprung forward or felled back, every media source feels it's their sole duty to warn the public about the catastrophe that will occur if they fail to change their clocks before they go to bed. It's printed in calendars, like a major holiday.

Here, I was told exactly once, yesterday, by my BF's mother, that clocks get changed tonight. I have listened intently to the news, confident that I can understand enough Hebrew to discern whether or not someone is talking about a clock, time, losing an hour of sleep (yes, that phrase is important enough to me to understand), etc. Zip, zero, zip, efes. And yet, there's this really annoying ad for saving water that comes on about every ten seconds. Save the Kineret, people, we don't care what time it is!

Maybe the problem is that they don't schedule the clock-changing for Friday night - that is, the night before Shabbat. I remember, growing up, that the reminders for daylight saving time were printed in huge bold letters on the church bulletins the week before, so that come Sunday, no one would be an hour early and stand lonesome in the sanctuary with their own thoughts and tired kids, or even worse, be an hour late and completely miss what God had to say that week. If the synagogues had a stake in this whole time-saving business, perhaps we'd hear more about it so as to avoid any ill-timed prayers.

Thursday, March 11, 2010

A sampling.

Some photos from my recent past.


From Life in Israel
Floods in the mountains outside J'lem. This is normally bone-dry, and I run here a lot.


From Life in Israe
Carmel mountains.


From Life in Israel

Orchids


From Life in Israel
Unknown flower


From Life in Israel
View from the Carmel


From Life in Israel
Judean hills


From Life in Israel
Oasis


From Life in Israel
Kennedy Memorial


From Life in Israel
Who's who?
(Ok, not taken in Israel, but in NYC's Chinatown. Never mind :)

Yeah? Well your mother doesn't make coffee like I do.

It's been a while. I stayed at home from work for the second day in a row today, and I'm to the point where I'm not feeling 100% healtyh but I'm bored outta my mind and restless. So, to the blog!

I'm not feeling particularly insightful today, so I'll just share a funny story that happened not long after I moved here. This incident pretty much explains the Israeli personality and the apparent contradiction between their aggressiveness and their consideration.

There is a monstrous new house going up next door to us. We spend a lot of time staring at this thing, making comments as to what we'd do better, and trying to understand why it's taking so damn long. This last mystery wasn't hard to solve, as there is evidence of workman presence approximately once a week, if that.

Well, about 7 months ago they were working more than today (yes, a year later, the thing still isn't finished). In fact, they would work until the sun would go down, and being as it was summer after the clocks changed, this meant about 8pm. You can imagine how thrilled we were to try to enjoy an al fresco dinner with the sounds of welding and crazy Israeli workman screaming at each other in the background. This wouldn't happen every day, but just often enough to drive us nuts. After a few times of this routine, DBF got fed up and started screaming at them over the fence. Now, this was before I could understand much Hebrew, so to my virgin ears the resulting exchange sounded like they were whipping out the "your mother" insults and threatening a Mossad-type assassination on one another. After a few minutes' screaming, DBF came storming into the house, and started making coffee.

Wait, what? You were just screaming at them, now you're having coffee with them?

Yeah, I told them I'd make them coffee if they'd stop now rather than later.

That's what you were screaming about?

Screaming? Who was screaming?

They spent the next 10 minutes chatting like they'd all known each other for years.

Monday, January 18, 2010

Lost in Transliteration

One would think names, brand names, and transliterated English words would stay the same from one language to another. I mean, we all pronounce 'Sarkozy' with a French accent, right? Right...?

Anyway, here is a short and incomplete list (sure to be expanded as time goes by) of funny Israeli pronunciations. This isn't just about putting the acCENT on the wrong syLLAble, but complete eff-ups of the words. First, I will list the English word, followed by the Israeli equivalent, and some hopefully witty comment about the latter.

Lauper (as in, Cindi): Laufer. This has an explanation, as the letter פ for P and F sounds is the same, and there are rules about when to use it as such, but c'mon! It's her name. Girls just wanna have pun? This country can handle פלפל = falafel without any p/f switches, which clearly explains their priorities.

Boeing: Boing. Talk about the mile high club.

Bowling: Bow-eling. There is a funny dipthong on this word that makes this game seem like it has drastic effects on your GI tract.

Lincoln (as in, Abraham): Lin-co-len. They spell his name with the Hebrew letter lamed (ל) in the middle, thus ensuring that every Israeli pronounces his name with a solid three syllables and ignoring every English grammar law that explain silent letters.

Saturday, January 16, 2010

Ech omrim "flatter your body" b'Ivrit?

Today was one of many-of-late abnormally lovely January Saturdays in Israel (how many qualifiers can I put in one sentence?) HaHaver and I started our morning with a run along the sea from Jaffo to the Tel Aviv harbor and back. We then had a great breakfast in Jaffo, and then headed to one of the many restaurant-bars along the sea just north of Jaffo for a beer in the sun before heading back to the J'lem mountains.

Guys, the people-watching in this country is amazing, especially in Tel Aviv and especially on the sea. There is such an amazing mix of locals and tourists, from all religions and classes and backgrounds. I remember being young and sitting in a mall or airport with my mom, and we would make up stories about the people walking by, so I know how to people-watch. Today, I had the most fun observing the fashion that paraded before me. It was a nice day, but it's still January, so people aren't exactly in beach attire. (For the most part). So it's that weird it's-nice-out-but-still-winter-so-I'll-just-wear-a-scarf-with-my-flipflops sort of a day.

I don't pretend to be incredibly fashion-forward, but I do have a fashion philosophy: clothes should make you look good. Why wear something if it makes you look terrible? Apparently, this philosophy has not made it to this country. Stacy and Clinton would have an absolute field day with the 30+ females here. Or maybe even they would throw their hands up in exasperation.


"I'm terribly sorry, but there's nothing we can do for you unless you
hand over the Bedazzler.
"

What do I mean? Well, most 18-25 year old are incredibly good-looking and trendy - right now it's kind of a blend of hipster and 80s. Leggings and Converse sneakers are everywhere. If you're under 25, gorgeous and thin, you could wear a potato sack and look good, but I also won't feel visually offended if you wear leggings as pants and a style of shoe I begged my parents for when I was 10. (Punky Brewster hot pink hi-tops, baby).

The problem is, these fashions are also seen on 40 year olds with more than a few extra pounds on them. NOT FLATTERING, I don't CARE how "in style" something is. It's like they saw something on a 50-kilo model, bought it in the same size, squeezed into it, and then went out of the house without one backward glance into a mirror. I know, I know, it happens everywhere, but here for some reason it is just so apparent - maybe because in general Israeli women truly are gorgeous and you find yourself pitying the woman who has such POTENTIAL to look SO amazing. Combine this with the obsession with sequins and nonsensical English t-shirts, and you have yourself a fashion crisis, my friends. I found myself wishing for a camera to document some of the atrocities I saw today, but I would have run out of memory on my zillion GB memory chip.